Drag racing is all about wringing the maximum acceleration out of the car. Basically an effective drag race tournament consists of a series of two-car eliminations in a all-out acceleration contest from the standing start between two vehicles over an exact distance at a special drag racing track.
Drag racing facilities are outfitted with “Christmas Tree” lights, and the standard distance is often either a quarter-mile (1,320 feet) or an eighth-mile (666 feet). Competing vehicles are split into a variety of classes, with specific rules that determine eligibility based on sort of car and modifications allowed. In addition to the regular “heads-up” races where both cars begin together, there are handicapped races, known as “E.T. Bracket Racing,” where two vehicles of varying performance can race on a potentially even basis. The anticipated elapsed times for each vehicle are compared, with the slower car getting a head start equivalent to the difference of the two. With this system, any two vehicles could be paired in a competitive race.
In professional category racing, the “Christmas Tree” lights control the most significant aspect of the race-the launch. The very first row of yellow lights warns drivers as they slowly approach the starting line. The second row confirms the “staged” position, which is once the front wheels of the car should be stopped on the starting line because it crosses the staged sensor beam. Then come the “three-amber starting system” lights. ” these three amber floodlights in a driver’s lane flash almost simultaneously before the green light comes on, in a “pro start. In a regular handicap race, drivers have a countdown of merely one amber light at a time until the green light comes on. The pro start system runs using a .4-second distinction between green and amber lights, whilst the handicap system runs having a .5-second distinction between each of the bulbs. As the green light switches on, the race begins along with the timer is started. The timer stops only once the car crosses the finish line at the opposite end of the track, with time and trap speed recorded. In case the last red light switches on, the driver is disqualified. This is caused by a car leaving the starting line before the green light comes on, or staging too deep past the starting line.
Drag Racing Basics 2
There are techniques to gain an advantage even before the light goes green. Remove all excess weight and loose items, including spare tire, hubcaps, jack and CDs beer cases and in many cases excess gasoline in the gas tank. Now deal with your tires. Firstly, dial out any negative camber in your suspension setup, that may be done at any alignment shop should you don’t learn how. This gives you optimum grip from your tires. Secondly, ditch those 18-inch rims with those stiff low-profile tires, and slap on your old stock 15-inch wheels rich in-profile tires. This will likely absorb the original jolt whenever you launch, and lower tire spin and wheel hop. When you are really serious, you could replace your tires with some drag racing slicks at the strip.
As soon as the starter waves you in the staging area, proceed slowly. There is not any need to go throughout the water box-simply drive around it when you have street tires. Go ahead and idle with the water to obtain the slicks wet if you are running slicks. After wetting the tires, pull forward a couple of feet and do a burnout to heat up your tires.
When you pull-up at the line for staging, you can try your luck, or maybe your skill, to stage as far into the staged beam as you can. How you will stage has a large influence on things like your reaction time as well as final time.
Staging “shallow” means that your vehicle takes more hours to pass with the staged increases and light-weight your reaction time, assuming all other variables are constant. It lowers one last elapsed time, and increases your trap speed. This is because the timer doesn’t start the timer until the tire comes out of your starting line beam. At that time, your car is already moving, so you get a slight running start. If you are a lttle bit quicker in your reaction time and energy to make up the difference, this only gives you a plus over your opponent. To be honest, the race is won based on who crosses the finish line first, not your elapsed time. It’s possible to have a quicker time and still lose simply because you were late off the line. Shallow staging also permits a driver who leaves early or creeps forward a bit before the green light.
Another little even closer to the finish line, which is always an advantage, though “Deep” staging puts you at the edge of disqualification. Either because your car is a little jumpy off the line or you have trouble leaving on that last yellow, deep staging can help, in the event that you can’t get your reaction time down enough. In case you have large-diameter front tires, you most likely want to deep stage to reduce your rollout. If you car has hardly any ground clearance, pieces of the leading bodywork or suspension may also trigger the lights, but be aware that. Be sure that it is really your tire within the staged beam, and not your front chin spoiler.
So, in conclusion, shallow staging increases your reaction time, reduces your elapsed increases and time trap speed, while being the safe choice for beginners. Deep staging decreases your reaction time, increases elapsed time and reduces the final trap speed, putting you at the fringe of disqualification so it should be reserved for experienced racers.
That should cover the basics to getting ready for your personal drag run without heavy modifications to the car. There are other things that people do, like put ice on the air intake and such, but those are touchy subjects. And launching the car is another subject by itself. Have fun. For as little as $10, you can test your skills at a proper drag strip, while speeding to your heart’s content and keeping your behind out from jail.